Ask The Vet: Traveling With Your Horse - May 07

I include in my on-road emergency kit:

* Saline solution (to flush eyes)
* Antibiotic eye ointment without steroids
* Fly Mask
* "Instant" cold compresses
* Nolvasan or Betadyne Surgical Scrub
* Scissors
* Telfa pads
* Roll Cotton
* Sheet Cotton
* "Kling" wrap Gauze roll bandages
* Vetwrap
* Track bandages
* Thermometer
* Stethoscope
* Flashlight or Headlamp
* Duct Tape
* Bute and/or Banamine (ask your veterinarian for her/his recommendation and dosing information)
* Towels
* Antibiotic ointment
* Poultice or Icthamol
* Shoe-pulling equipment

Two sources for finding a list of equine veterinarians while on the road are:
www.Bayerdvm.com/getadvm/ and
www.polocenter.com/vets/vetsus.htm.

While it would be great to have your mare close to you so you can care for her, you do want to make sure that her injury is not aggravated by the trailer trip. You didn't mention how long ago her bow occurred; it would be safer to transport her if the injury was several weeks old and starting to heal, rather than being a fresh bow with significant inflammation and heat still present.

I would recommend that you have her examined by a veterinarian, and possibly ultrasounded as well, to determine the severity of the bow so you can make an informed decision about transporting her. While Bute may make her more comfortable during transport, it will not protect her tendon from further injury. When you do trailer her, I would recommend a good support wrap for the injured leg in particular. While the wrap can't supply all of the support her leg would like, it can help take some of the stress off of the tendon.

The website, www.aphis.usda.gov/vs/sregs/ has the most up-to-date information on health requirements by state. Many of the states do, however, suggest that you contact them for any more recent updates.

I've never had someone mention bedding blowing around in a trailer with open vents and windows. While good ventilation is important during travel, you might want to check your trailer to see if you have an excessive "wind tunnel" effect if the bedding in your trailer is blowing about during travel. Too much wind can damage eyes and make for an uncomfortable trip. That being said, wood shavings, not sawdust, seems to be a good choice for bedding that tends to stay put. You might try dampening it slightly so that any dust doesn't blow around.

Horses are herd animals, accustomed to open spaces. Confinement, especially in a horse trailer where they can't move about, can be very stressful to some horses. Many horses travel better when they can look out of a window when they travel. Some will travel better in a straight load, others better in a slant load. You might try experimenting (borrow a friend's trailer) with both configurations. Some horses prefer to ride backwards, or slanted backwards. You might also try a loose box set up or stock trailer. Do make sure that your trailer is wide and tall enough for your horse too. Make sure that your trailer is comfortable to ride in; some have unbalanced tires or axels and provide a very rough ride with lots of vibration. You might also consider trying a calming or anti-anxiety compound.

I am a firm believer in wrapping (or using shipping boots, at least) whenever shipping a horse. You want to protect those nice, straight legs of that sound young horse. Trailering incidents and accidents can and do happen. Someone may hit your trailer, or you may have to stop or swerve suddenly. Something may startle your horse while you are loading or unloading him, causing him to fly backwards off of the trailer, hitting a leg. A good wrap can protect his vulnerable legs against a major leg injury.

The cons? It takes a few minutes to properly wrap a horse's legs. An occasional horse can kick enough to get his wrap or shipping boot loose or off, which can scare him. Finally, an improperly applied wrap or boot could potentially cause pressure sores or "cord" his leg. I personally feel that the pros of wrapping substantially outweigh the cons.

First of all, your horse will require a negative Coggins test (for Equine Infectious Anemia), within six to 12 months, depending on the state you are going to. Most states require a health certificate, within 10 to 30 days, again depending on the state. Some states require a brand inspection or entry permit. The best thing to do is to check with your veterinarian as to what is required for the state(s) you are going to require.

I'm glad to hear that you are thinking well ahead of shipping the foal. It gives you plenty of time to prepare the foal. I would recommend that you get her used to getting on and off of trailers, and standing on the trailer for a period of time, with mom if necessary. It would also be good to take the foal or the both of them on a few short practice rides. I prefer to leave the foal untied while shipping, in a "box" stall made out of one of the trailer stalls. Make sure that the foal can't get out of the front or back of the stall if it is a straight load, or use the solid or "stud" wall in a slant load. A companion horse can certainly help make a weanling's first trailer trip a more pleasant experience, but the horse should be physically separated from the weanling to avoid injuring the youngster.

If you decide to use a commercial hauler, you should request a box stall. With a foal of this age, I would be somewhat concerned about her vaccination status and resistance to disease.

I suspect that something scared or hurt her at one time while she was in the trailer, and now she associates trailering with fear or pain. Now, each time she is loaded, she becomes fearful (even with the tranquilizer), and starts to scramble, which scares her even more. Make sure that your trailer has a non-slip flooring and consider adding some shavings or sawdust as well. One thing that I have found works for some (including one horse that I had that did the same thing!) is to give your horse a double stall. This is wide enough so that she can't lean up against the wall and put her legs against the opposite wall to scramble. This is the oversize version of shortening the trailer divider. You don't mention how wide your trailer is; I would recommend one that is at least six feet wide. With some time traveling this way (a year or more), you may at some time in the future (a year or more) be able to trailer her in one stall again. It took my horse two years, but he was eventually able to travel, in the driver's side stall only, with another horse in the other stall.

Your horse certainly may be claustrophobic. You may want to consider whether your new trailer has fewer or a smaller window than your old trailer. Or, perhaps it has a bigger window, where your horse is being scared by what he sees passing by this window. He also may not like travelling "slanted." Opening up or removing one of the dividers certainly could help him. I would recommend putting him in the back two stalls, as this would give him even more room. You may also consider trailering him "loose", but you do have to be careful of sudden stops and starts. Another thing you may check into is the noise level in your new trailer. Some trailers rattle and bang excessively while travelling and can really upset a horse. Also, check for wasp or bees nests, which certainly can cause some problems as well!

Your horse will have the best ride in a trailer that fits him! While some horses do prefer to ride "slanted", others prefer to ride reverse slanted, or even backwards, many horses prefer to ride facing forward, often happily resting their hind quarters on the butt strap. Large horses that are crammed into a slant load will not ride comfortably, so I bet that you will give your horse the best ride by trailering him in a roomy straight load.

Horses can contract a variety of diseases both from their environment and from other horses. Tetanus, Rabies, Eastern and Western Encephalomyelitis and West Nile are "basic" vaccinations we give here in New England. Horses that travel or come into contact with other horses also get Influenza and Rhinopneumonitis. Strangles and Potomac horse fever are also vaccinations to consider in certain geographic locations. It would be a good idea to check with your veterinarian to see what he/she would recommend the area you are traveling to. While it won't "hurt" your horse to have an additional vaccination that he has had recently, most vaccinations require a series of two in order to provide full protection.

I prefer to stop every three to four hours to water the horses, and give them a brief break. I open the doors and let them look around. They seem to enjoy the activity at the stops. It gives them a chance to relax; I find that few horses become restless, especially if they are used to this routine. Many horses will urinate at this time. It also allows the driver to have a break; to get food, walk around, use the bathroom and refuel the truck. If you do travel for eight hours time, you should make sure that your horses have access to water and hay.

Sounds like you are well on your way to planning a good trip. Allowing horses to eat hay throughout the trip can help prevent colic and gastric ulcers. But, having their heads stuck in a manger packed full of hay can certainly increase their risk of respiratory problems. One compromise would be to put enough hay in the mangers to last 2 to 3 hours, then stop to water them and add more hay about that often. This way, your horses can eat, but have some breathing room as well. Make very sure that the hay is not dusty or moldy. Also, make sure your trailer has adequate ventilation.

I am not aware of any large studies regarding horse comfort in straight vs. slant load trailers. There are pluses and minuses to both types of trailers, and many people (and horses) have a strong preference for one over the other. A slant load allows for more horses to be trailered in less space. If tied loose or not tied, a slant load also allows a horse to get his head down, which may decrease the possibility of respiratory disease. Some horses travel better in a slant, but others have problems because the right front and left hind legs can take increased stress during acceleration and stops. Some people have noted that, if given a choice in a stock trailer, many horses travel slanted backwards. Other horses prefer a straight load; they often sit on the butt strap or bar, which can help them balance and allow them to "rest" while traveling. It also allows for easier access to individual horses during transport, and either horse can be unloaded without needing to unload the other one. In either type, the stall and headspace area should be long and wide enough to accommodate the size horse that you have. Adequate ventilation is important, as well as eye protection in a slant load if you choose to leave the head drop down doors open during transit.

If your horse is comfortable in the trailer, and you stop every few hours to water and give your horse a bit of a break from the road, a 10 to 12 hour day, with overnights out of the trailer, worked well for most horses. Unless you have a very safe area to unload and reload, I don't recommend taking horses off the trailer every few hours.

Sounds like your horses are getting plenty of fresh air when you trailer them, while being protected from being too cold by blanketing. That's good! Putting fly masks on them will protect their eyes from flying debris that can enter your trailer. I don't see any risk of deafness unless your trailer rattles or bangs when you ship. I would recommend putting rubber stall mats on the floor to help absorb some of the vibration, and adding some bedding to help preventing them from slipping on manure and urine that accumulate during shipping. I personally like to use shipping boots or wraps on my horses' legs when trailering. They can help prevent bruising and lacerations to your horses' legs that can occur if you have to make a sudden stop or turn.

It is very important to offer your horse water while trailering. I recommend offering water every 2 to 3 hours, ideally when you will be stopping for 15 to 30 minutes, such as for fuel. This allows your horse to relax and drink. I like to travel with several 5 gallon buckets with screw on lids, and pour some into a 2 gallon bucket for my horses to drink out of. They are easy to transport and to clean. They also allow you to save any water that your horse may not drink at that time.

For a trip of that length, especially in the heat, it is vitally important to stop every 2 to 3 hours to water your mules and Jack. Insufficient water intake, especially in the heat, can lead to overheating, dehydration and colic. In very hot weather, it is also an excellent idea to wet them down to help keep them cool. Imagine how you would feel if you didn't drink or use the air conditioning in your truck during the entire trip!

Horses that are under stress are certainly more prone to ulcers, and travelling can be stressful. Horses that are stabled, rather than being out on pasture, are also more prone to gastric ulcers. Keeping hay in front of your horse at all times while travelling mimics grazing; keeping hay in your horse's stomach reduces the action of gastric acid on the stomach lining. There are several products available for ulcer prevention such as Ulcergard and Gastrogard, providing your sport's governing body allows it's use. Check with your equine veterinarian for other possible options.

Moving from Maryland to Maine should not constitute an extreme change of climate for your horses; I would move them during the spring or early fall rather than the heat of summer. For older horses, I would break the trip up into three days; hence two overnight stops. Keep hay in front of them during the trip, and make sure that you stop every few hours while traveling to offer your horses water and to give them a rest from the vibration of the road. When you say that moving has become increasingly stressful for your gelding, I assume that you mean trailering. Since it sounds like you aren't planning the move for a year or two, you have time to accustom him to the trailer before you make the trip. You may want to seek professional help with this, since it sounds like he has been getting worse over time. In terms of giving him a low dose of a sedative, you should check with your veterinarian, as he/she has the best knowledge of your horse's health.

Sounds like you are planning ahead! If the mare trailers well, it would probably be best if you gave the mare and foal a double or box stall. The mare could either be left loose or tied, being careful that the foal cannot become tangled in the rope. The foal should be left loose. Make sure that the walls are solid to the floor so that the foal does not slip underneath the other horses. The floor should be well-bedded. You should plan on stopping at least once each day for an hour to allow the foal to rest and nurse. Make sure that you offer them all water at each stop. No special supplements are necessary.

From your question, I am assumng that your horse travels alone. Often, travelling with a "buddy" horse, or a pony or goat that lives in the same stall, can help quiet a nervous horse. Stabling him next to another horse that he can see should also help. If that is not possible, then there are some other things that can be done to help him. Feeding your horse from a hay net and a bucket hung from the wall, rather than on the floor, allows him to look around while he is eating. As prey animals, horses want to be able to see all around them, and allowing them to do so while they eat often reduces their anxiety. You also might try Modipher EQ Nasal mist, a product that is sprayed into your horse's nostrils that can reduce anxiety.

On a 12 hour, one day trip, you don't necessarily need to take your horse off the trailer for him to "stretch" his legs. It can be dangerous to take your horse off of the trailer in a strange place, surrounded by cars and the highway, and then have to reload him. I would, however, recommend that you stop every 3 to 4 hours for 20 to 30 minutes, open the doors/windows and water him. Just stopping lets him rearrange himself and get a break from the vibration of the road. This often coincides well with fuel, food and bathroom breaks for the driver. If you do decide to take him off, one to two "stretching" breaks would be sufficient. Just be careful where you stop; look carefully for glass and other debris that could injure him. Try to stop in an area that has lots of room and very little traffic.

There are several types of excellent leg wraps and shipping boots available to help protect your horse's during trailering. The "old" method of using thick quilts or "cottons" from just below the knee or hock to below the coronet, and snugly wrapping over them with "track" bandages, with or without the use of bell boots is still an excellent way to protect legs. While a bit more time-consuming than boots, they do an excellent job of protecting legs, especially if you do get into an accident and your horse ends up thrashing around.

There are many types of shipping boots available, most of which close with hook & loop fasteners. These vary widely in level of protection, horse comfort and ease of application. Boots such as splint, interference or sports medicine boots were not designed for shipping, and should not be used for shipping. You should look for shipping boots that are thick enough to offer protection should your horse kick out, scramble while loading or unloading or end up in a trailer accident. "Ballistic" nylon is an excellent choice for the outer covering. The fasteners should not come undone too easily so that the boots stay on when stressed. Fleece or "felt" are common linings. They too should cover the cannon and coronet areas. Some of the very inexpensive, thin boots offer very little protection. Make sure that they fit your horse's leg; a boot that is too large or loose will come off too easily and not protect your horse's leg in case of a trailering incident. Both wraps and boots should be kept clean, as dirty ones could cause rubs and irritations while shipping.

Just like wearing a seat belt, wraps or boots should be used whenever you ship your horse. You never know when a trailering incident or accident might happen; they are inexpensive insurance to help prevent a potentially devastating leg injury.

It is wise of you to have your horses' vaccinations up to date, Coggins tests current and having them on a good parasite control program. While your horses can pick up a respiratory infection or internal parasites from campgrounds and stalls previously used by other horses, there are some steps that you can take to minimize this. Call ahead and ask when the last horses were there preceding your arrival. Sunshine, rain and several days time will kill most respiratory pathogens (bacteria or viruses that can cause infection), so the longer between horse visitors, the less likely that your horses will pick up something. A smaller, less frequented place is likely to have fewer than one that has a large number of stalls and is used on a daily basis by large shipping companies or used frequently as a show grounds. Ask if they disinfect the stalls between horse visitors; some places do, some very nice places don't. Disinfectants can kill most pathogens that your horse might pick up. They should ask you for proof of negative Coggins tests. Bring and use your own buckets for feed and water and use your own hay nets (or feed off of the clean floor) rather than use their hay racks. This again minimizes the number of potential pathogens that your horses might be exposed to.

Keep your horses as stress-free as possible during shipping. Stress decreases immune system function, making it harder for your horses' to fight off any infection. Make sure that your horses have plenty of ventilation in your trailer. Allowing them the opportunity to get their heads down during shipping is also helpful. Both of these minimize the amount of dust that your horses could inhale during shipping. Dust irritates their airway, causing inflammation, which can allow pathogens to more readily enter your horses' systems. Shipping your horses in your own trailer, rather than by commercial shipper, vastly reduces the risk of picking up respiratory infections.

Try to keep your horses from grazing areas where other horses have left manure and probably parasite eggs. This will help keep your horses from picking up any internal parasites (worms).

Having said all of this, don't let it keep you from traveling and camping with your horses. I and many of my clients have traveled from Vermont to places like Montana, Utah, California and Florida, using campgrounds, equine "hotels" and B & B's quite happily and without incident. A little careful planning and calling ahead would give you a most enjoyable trip.